What we deal with
| Problem or job | Typical cause or work |
|---|---|
| Leak under a basin or bath | A loose or failed waste joint, trap or tap connector |
| Stain on the ceiling below | A shower tray seal, waste joint or pipe leak |
| Gurgling plughole | Air being pulled through the trap when water drains elsewhere |
| Slow drain | Hair and soap in the trap, or a waste with too little fall |
| Smell from a plughole | A trap that's dried out or been siphoned empty |
| Low pressure at one outlet | A partly closed valve, a blocked aerator or undersized pipework |
| New fixture | Supplies and wastes moved or extended for a new basin, toilet or shower |
Finding a leak
Bathroom leaks are often slow, and water travels before it shows. A stain on the kitchen ceiling might come from a shower tray at the other end of the bathroom above. Finding the real source means working through the likely places in order: the shower tray seal and waste, the bath waste and overflow, the basin trap and tap connectors, the toilet pan connector and cistern, then the supply pipes. With the water off at each outlet, a leak that stops tells you where it is. Fixing the source, rather than just re-sealing what you can see, is what stops it coming back.
Waste pipes and drainage
Each fitting has its own size of waste. Basins usually drain through 32mm pipe, baths and showers through 40mm, and toilets through 110mm soil pipe. Every waste needs a steady fall so water carries debris away. Too little fall and it drains slowly and blocks; too long a run and the water can pull the trap empty as it goes. When fittings move during a refit, getting the waste runs right is as important as the supply.
Traps and smells
The trap under each fitting holds a little water that stops drain smells coming into the room. If it's siphoned empty, usually by a long or steep waste run, you'll hear gurgling and notice a smell. Anti-siphon traps or changes to the waste run sort it. Shallow traps are available for low-profile shower trays, where there's very little space under the tray.
Supply pipes
Older bathrooms often have copper pipework joined with soldered or compression fittings. Newer installations may use plastic push-fit pipe, which is quick and flexible but needs the pipe cut cleanly, inserted fully and properly supported. Either way, every fitting should have an isolation valve, so a tap or toilet can be worked on without turning off the whole house.
Low pressure at one tap
If one tap or shower is weak and the rest of the house is fine, the problem is usually local: an isolation valve not fully open, a blocked aerator or shower head, or a long run of small pipe. If the whole house is low, it's more likely to be the supply or the hot water system. See our page on shower installation for how water systems affect showers.
Silicone and sealant
Sealant around baths, showers and basins is a plumbing job as much as a decorating one, because failed sealant lets water into walls and floors. Old sealant needs cutting out completely and the surface cleaning before new sealant goes on. Sealing over the top of old, mouldy sealant doesn't last. Black mould that keeps returning under the sealant can also be a sign that water is getting behind it.
Pipework boxing
Pipes running across walls or floors can be boxed in neatly, but any boxing should have an access panel wherever there are joints or valves. Pipework that's sealed behind tiles with no way in becomes an expensive problem when it needs attention.
Fixture upgrades
Swapping a basin, toilet, tap or shower head for a new one is often a straightforward job, as long as the new fitting suits the existing supplies and wastes. A new wall-hung basin or toilet needs solid fixings in the wall behind. See our page on tap and fixture installation.
Water byelaws in Scotland
All plumbing work in Scotland has to meet Scottish Water's water fittings byelaws, which set out the fittings and materials that can be used and how they must be installed to protect the drinking water supply.
Rented properties
Plumbing problems in a rented home can spread fast, especially leaks into a flat below. If you manage rented or HMO properties, our guide to bathrooms in rented and HMO properties covers what to think about. If the bathroom is past repair, see complete bathroom renovations.
Frequently asked questions
Can you find where a bathroom leak is coming from?
Yes. We work through the likely sources in order, from the shower tray and wastes to the supply pipes, until we find the real cause.
Why does my plughole gurgle?
Usually because water draining elsewhere is pulling air through the trap. An anti-siphon trap or a change to the waste run sorts it.
Why does my bathroom smell of drains?
Often a trap that's dried out or been siphoned empty. Running the tap refills it; if it keeps happening, the waste needs looking at.
Why is one tap weak when the others are fine?
Usually a partly closed valve, a blocked aerator or a long run of small pipe.
Can you just re-seal my bath or shower?
Yes. The old sealant is cut out completely and the surface cleaned first, so the new seal lasts.
Do you give free quotes?
Yes. Call 07453 243277 or send an enquiry, and we'll come back to you with a free quote.
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